Frequently Asked Questions

A single small patch is often done in one visit. Larger repairs usually need two or three, because joint compound has to dry fully between coats and matching an existing texture takes a careful eye. We’ll give you a realistic schedule in the estimate rather than an optimistic one.

Yes. Knockdown, orange peel, splatter, stomp, and smooth Level 5 finishes are all in our regular rotation. Texture matching is the part most contractors get wrong, and it’s the part we spend the most time on.

Less than you’re expecting. We mask openings, use containment, and vacuum-sand where the job allows. Full-house dust is a sign of a crew cutting corners on prep.

It might, if it was installed before roughly 1985. We don’t guess on this one. If the age is uncertain, testing comes first, and if a sample is positive we’ll point you to a licensed abatement contractor rather than take the job.

In most cases, yes. We contain and seal the work area room by room, so the rest of the house stays usable. We’ll tell you honestly if a particular project is an exception.

Yes — and that’s included. Scraped ceilings need skim coating, sanding, and priming before paint, or the finish will telegraph every imperfection underneath.

Generally late spring through early fall, when temperatures stay reliably above the product’s minimum application range overnight. We schedule exteriors around the weather rather than against it.

Yes. We move and cover what’s in the room as part of the job. We’ll ask you to handle valuables, electronics, and anything fragile or irreplaceable.

Whatever the surface and color change require — usually two, sometimes three over drastic color changes or bare repairs. The number is written into your estimate before we start.

Usually three to four inches below the lowest obstruction, though we can tighten that with low-clearance grid systems where headroom is critical. We’ll measure and tell you the exact number before you commit.

Often, yes. It depends on your joist depth and what’s running below them. If a drop ceiling would leave the room uncomfortably tight, we’ll say so and talk through drywall or exposed-ceiling alternatives.

Meaningfully, yes — they absorb sound within the room and dampen transfer from the floor above. For serious sound isolation between levels, pair it with our soundproofing work.

Typically 24 hours for foot traffic and 72 hours for vehicles with polyaspartic systems, though it varies with product and temperature. You’ll get exact numbers for your floor before we finish.

A properly installed system resists salt, oil, and most household chemicals. That’s a large part of why we prefer polyaspartic topcoats in this climate — they handle salt and temperature swings better than standard epoxy alone.

Usually, yes — after grinding the existing material off. What we won’t do is coat over a failing or unknown product and call it done, because the new floor will only bond as well as what’s underneath it.

Current recommendations for our climate zone land around R-49 to R-60 in the attic. Plenty of metro homes built before the 1990s sit well under that. We’ll measure what you have and tell you where you actually stand.

It helps, but ice dams are an air-leak and ventilation problem as much as an insulation one. We address all three together — sealing, insulating, and keeping the soffit-to-ridge airflow clear.

In many cases yes, using dense-pack blown-in through small access holes that we patch and finish afterward. Since we’re a drywall company, that patch won’t be the thing you notice.

No. Acoustic foam absorbs reflections inside a room, which makes the room sound better but does almost nothing to stop sound from passing through a wall. Blocking transfer takes mass and decoupling.

It depends entirely on the assembly and the existing construction. A properly decoupled, double-layer wall with damping compound makes a dramatic, obvious difference. We’ll set a specific expectation for your project instead of a vague one.

Sometimes we can add a damped layer over existing drywall and seal the flanking paths, which helps meaningfully. For serious isolation — a theater, a shared wall, a music room — opening the assembly is usually the honest answer.

It’s included with painting projects we’re quoting. If you’d like a standalone consultation without painting work attached, call us and we’ll talk through the options.

Absolutely, and often that’s the whole job — you’ve narrowed it to two or three and want a second opinion from someone who’s seen those colors on a hundred walls.

We work across major professional lines and will recommend a product based on the surface and the room rather than a preferred supplier.

A typical room runs one to two days for removal and cleanup, plus additional time if the wall needs skim coating and if painting is part of the scope. The test section during the estimate gives us a reliable read.

We generally advise against it. Seams telegraph through, moisture from the paint can loosen the adhesive, and it makes proper removal much harder later. There are narrow exceptions and we’ll tell you if yours is one.

Some damage is normal, especially where paper was hung on unprimed drywall. That’s expected and it’s included — patching, skim coating and priming are part of the job, not a change order.